Hemmek



Aug. 4, 1953 A, J. GENTILLO HEMMER Filed March 28, 1952 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Cttornegs Aug- 4, 1 953 A. J. GENTILLO 2,647,479

HEMMER Filed March 28, 1952 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented ug. 4, 1953 signor to Willcox & Gibbs Sewing VMachine Company, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New vYork Application Manch-28, 195,2.,Serial1Nm279Jl56 HThe present invention ,relates to -a .heniforin- .ing device and more .particularly to .a device for producing a downstitched hemhavi'rig airee floating annular elastic core therein.

An object of the present inventionis 'provide Aa herinner device which will Iproduce ahem having an elastic member therein, Whichhcmpresents an extremely neat and pleasing appearance and in which uniformity of size can be maintained. This is accomplished ,according to vthe present invention by providing alongit'udinally split hemmer having a `fabric guiding channel therein through which the edge of ,a tubular fabric member is fed as it passes to the Stitching mechanism to form a downfaced hem. The hemmer also includes a central elastic core guiding channel which permits an annular core to be fed into the hem and positioned thereinfree of any stitching, the parts of' the hemmer being separable along the 'longitudinal split therein to free the hem and the elastic from the channel `to permit the first part of thestitched hem to pass therethrough as the material is fed 4to the stitching mechanism to complete'the hein on the tubular body.

A feature of the invention residesfin a guide means adjacent the discharge end of the folding device for vengaging the edge of the hem' leaving the folding device andguiding the same during the sewing operation and for maintaining the hem against spreading when thefolderparts are separated. K

Another feature of the invention resides'vin the tensioning-means for'the elastic core whereby the core can be properly tensioned as it isfed `dm'- ing the sewing operation and which au tornatically is releasedincident to "the separationof'the folder parts and release of the corey thereby.

A further feature of the invention resides in the manual control for the tensioning device whereby the tension von thecore can lbe controlled during the sewing operation.

The hemmer of the present'inventlon is particularly useful in forming directly on tubular fabric members elasticV cored hems such as are found at the waist of ,undergarrnents of the structure of the device, annularpreforxned elastic cores may be employed so'thataccurate sizing `can be maintained. Also since `the lcore is maintained free of the stitching 'in thelhem itflnay be readily removed Mand replaced inthe hem should such operation become-necessary.

Other features and advantages oftheginvention will be apparent from the specification and claims when consideredA in connection with-the draw-ings wherein:

Because (Cl. v41.1122443 Figure 1 shows a plan View of the device mounted on the bed of a sewing machine.

Flg'.2sliows a front view of the hemmer device.

,Fig.3 shows a back View of the hemmerdevice.

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 2 showing the parts "of vthe folder in separated position.

vliigyijs a section al view of the stitched hem.

Figc shows an annular elastic core.

*Fg. 'l shows a portion of the control rneans for the tension device.

Fig. 8-is a view partly in section of the tension device taken along line -ii of Fig. 10.

Fig. 9 is a view taken along line Q of Fig. 1.

Fig. 1'0 isa view similar to Fig. 9 showing the tensioning devce in released position.

11 shows a fragmentary View of the base ojfjthe devicev showing a modified form oi tensioning control.

Fig.' 12 is a detailed sectional View taken on line|2|2 of Fig. 11 showing the relation of the cam and operating portion of the tension plate in maximum tension producing relation.

Fig. 13is a view similar to Fig. 12 showing the position of the cam and operating portion of the tensionplate in intermediate tension producing position.

Fig-141s a View similar to Fig. 12 showing the vposition of the cam and operating portion of the tension plate in substantially released position.

lllhile'tfhe hem forming device of the present invention maybe formed as a part of a sewing machine, in vthe herein illustrated form of the invention itl is is shown as an attachment to be mounted in an opening Illa on the bed il) of a sewing machine so as to be in line with the stitching mechanism thereof indicated by the presser footvIl and needles l2. It is to be under- 'fstood that while a single needle may be employed when ahcadng is not desired, I have shown a pair -of needles kin the stitching mechanism to `produce parallel rows of stitching as shown in Fig. 5.

"'helheinmer attachment comprises a base I3 adaptedto rest on cutway shoulders ich on the edges vof the opening ltd and be clamped in posi- Vt-io'nonthebase by means of a clamping nut I4.

`'I-nfthe preferred form of the invention the -llfiernrner#has a longitudinally split folder l5 for folding the edge of the fabric into a tubular downwardly facing-hem as the fabric is fed therethrough to the stitching mechanism. The folder comprisesa relatively fixed part It mounted on the top of the base for adjustment transversely of the line ofsewing, as established by the stitching mechanism, by means of clamping screws il passing through elongate slots I8 formed in the extension I9 of the fixed part as shown in Fig. 1. The other or movable part 2l] of the folder is carried by a slide 2l overlying the base and secured thereto for sliding movement by means of enlarged headed screws 22 threaded into the base and passing through slots 23 in the slide. The movable part of the folder is mounted on the slide for adjustment with respect thereto by means of clamping bolts 2li' passing through slots 25 in the folder part. By adjusting the positions of the two parts of the folder, variation may be obtained in the Width of the hem formed thereby. The movable part of the folder has a fabric guide channel 26 formed therein which opens at the edge thereof as shown in Fig. 3. When the two parts are brought together, shown in Figs. 2 and 3, the edge of part lies in predetermined spaced relation to the fixed part I6 so as to form therewith a continuation 26a of the fabric guiding channel which will produce, when the edge of a fabric is fed therethrough, a downwardly faced tubular hem, such as shown in Fig. 5.

'1"0 aid in feeding the edge of the fabric into the fabric guiding channel, the movable part has an elongate table 2'! which extends laterally from the mouth of the guide channel as shown in Fig.

1 to support the fabric as it feeds into and through the folder. The fabric supporting table has openings 27a therein to afford ready access to the clamping bolts 2li.

Centrally located within the movable part so as to be disposed within the fabric guiding channel is an elastic core guiding channel 28. In the illustrated form of the invention the guide channel is a substantially U-shaped channel extending through the folder with its open edge facing the xed part of the folder. With this construction when the two parts of the folder are separated or spread along the parting line 29, Fig. 3, to the separated position of Fig. 4, the fabric and the core will be readily released therefrom as will be explained.

In order to separate the two parts of the folder, the end of the slide i9 is connected through suitable linkage 313 to a crank arm 3i on a shaft 32 which is normally urged by any suitable means (not shown) to a position to maintain the folder parts in closed relation. By turning the shaft by any suitable manipulating lever or foot pedal, not shown, which may be connected to arm 32a, the parts can be spread from closed position shown in full lines in Fig. l and in Figs. 2 and 3 to the open position shown in Fig. 4 and in dot and dash lines in Fig. 1.

A feature of the present invention is the mounting of a guide means in conjunction with the folder for engaging the edge of the hem as it leaves the folder to provide an accurate control thereof and to prevent spreading of the hem when the folder parts are separated and the hem released therefrom. While the guide means may take many forms, it is herein preferred to form the member as a bracket 32 adjustably attached to the base by screws 33 passing through elongate openings 34 in a flange 35 thereof, said bracket having an upstanding nger 36 which extends as it passes through the folding device, a 'novel tensioning means is provided which is mounted on the underside of the fabric supporting table of the folder device as is clearly shown in Figs. 1 and 8 and comprises a tension plate 31 having a core engaging portion 3S along one edge adapted to lengage the core as it passes into the core guiding channel so as to press it against the underside of the fabric supporting table. The pressure of the plate against the core is determined by the spring means 39 which bears against the plate and surrounds a pin i0 projecting from the table. The lower end of the pin extends through an opening 13a in the base and has nut All and lock nut l2 threaded thereon in position to be readily manipulated and adjusted to vary the tension in the spring. The tension plate has an operating portion 38a which extends downwardly at an angle and is positioned to engage a cam 123 when the movable part of the folder is shifted as shown in Fig. Ll to rock the plate about its pivot portion 38h to remove the pressure from the core and release the tension in the core as an incident to the separation of the folder parts. While the cam d3 may be made as part of the base, in the illustrated form of the invention it is formed on a lever 411 pivoted on the base at lilla. A stop i5 engages the lever to properly position the cam A3 in the path of movement of the operating part 38a.

Should it be necessary during the sewing operation to release the tension, this may be accomplished by providing a cam 46 on the pivoted lever fill to be moved into engagement with the operating portion 38a to rock it about the pivot upon actuation of the fingerpiece Mb to the dot and dash position of the lever shown in Fig. 1.

In the form of the invention shown in Figs. l1 to 14 the tension can be controlled so that it may be increased and decreased during the sewing operation. This is accomplished by forming the control cam as an elongate cam 46a, as shown in Fig. 1l, which extends under the operating portion 38a of the tension plate to more closely regulate the pressure on the core.

As is seen in Fig. 12, the core has a maximum pressure applied thereto since the operating part is on the lowest portion of the cam. Fig. 13 illustrates a position wherein an intermediate tension is applied to the core since the operating portion is at the middle of the cam. Fig. 14 shows a point wherein very little tension is applied to the core since the operating portion is almost on the fiat part of the member at which point the tension is released. In order to maintain the lever 44 for the cam 46a in its adjusted positions, a plurality of notches fs'i, as shown in Fig. 11, are formed on the base to cooperate with a detent 48 on the lever in its upwardly so as to engage the side of the hem and then extends laterally so as to overlie the edge of In order to control the tension of the elastic core 28a being fed to the stitching mechanism various positions of adjustments.

Because of the structure of the folder, the elastic core 28a may be preformed as an annular `member as shown in Fig. 6. While the member maybe made as a continuous band, it is herein illustrated as an elastic strip having the ends stitched together as at 28D. The use of an annular core is advantageous since it permits the size to be accurately controlled and enables the core to be made free floating in the hem so that it can be more readily replaced than the usual elastic cores which are stitched at one or more points tothe hem.

. .In the operation of the present invention the hammer attachment is placed in position in the opening Illa in the bed of the sewing machine and fclampedfftherein '@bynut M. The two parts it and 121i of the folder are adiiustedon lthe base and slide to provide the hem of the required width. The elastic core is `insertevzl into the elastic core guiding chan-nel. The nuts "M, d2 are adjusted to -set the core tension means to apply the required operating ltensionfon the core. The edge of the tubular fabric is fed over the fabric supporting table and linto the fabric guiding channel nso as to form a tubular hem around the elastic core. This folded portion is `moved forward until `-it is under the presser foot -li and in position to be stitched bythe needles Ii 2.

The sewing machine vis operated to Ystitch the hem, such as shown in Fig. `5, about `the top edge of the tubular garment. It will be notedth'at the core is' located centrally ofthe hem and is free of engagement by any ofthe stitches. When the part of a hem which is vvfirst stitched approaches thefolder, the shaft 32 is operated to spread the folder and separate the parts tothe position shown in Fig. d. rh-is spreading of the folder parts releases the fabric 'from the vguiding channel, the tension on the core, and releases the core from the core guiding channel. The separatedparts will then permit the stitched part of the hem'to Spass therethrough as the sewing continues to `complete the hem. 'I'here is sufficient tension on the material to cause the short portion between the presser .foot and the `stitched part of the hem to fall into position, the guide means preventing undue spreading of the hem.

During the sewing operation should it vbe discovered that the tension .on the elastic is not proper to produce the desired laying-in of the elastic core it may be adjusted by manipulating the hand lever lill to cause the cam 46 or 46a, depending upon the form of the invention employed, to engage the operating portion of the tension plate and regulate the pressure of the core engagingportion of the tension plate against the core.

lit will be seen that by the present invention a tubular downstitched hem is readily formed around the tubular garment with the annular elastic core positioned therein free of any stitching so that it is free floating in the hem and can ce readily removed therefrom should it be required to be replaced. Furthermore, by using an annular elastic member, the size of the waist may be accurately controlled.

Variations and modications may be made within the scope of the claims and portions of the improvements may be used Without others.

I claim:

1. A hemmer attachment for a sewing machine for producing a downstitched hem having an elastic core therein comprising a base; a longitudinally split folder thereon comprising relatively movable parts, each of said parts being provided with a fabric guiding channel extending `therethrough and provided with a spaced, facing turning portion to form the edge of the fabric into a double turn tubular hem and having a centrally disposed elastic core guiding channel extending therethrough; an :adjustable tensioning means on the attachment to engage the core to provide a required tension on the core; seprating means connected to the movable part and operable to separate said parts along the longitudinal split therein to release the fabric from the fabric guide channel and the core from the elastic core guiding channel; and means on the tensioning means actuated by movement of said last means to automatically release the tensioningimeans incident to Vseparation oithe` felder parts.

2. A 'hemmer ldevice "for ta `sewing ymachine for producing a downstitched l'hem therein comprising a base; a folder having a :fabric guiding cha-11cnel extending therethroughiprovided with Elaterally spaced turn-ing portions, said portions facing eachother to form the edge of the fabric 'into a ydouble turn ltubular hem, said folder being split longitudinally between vthe turning portions -to formv relatively movable parts; means mounting the folder on the base with vparts in alignment and at least one -of said -parts'of thefolderibeing slidable in a single plane ltoward and away from the other part; gui-'de lmean-s on the v"base and eng-aging the 'edge of the'hem formedby theturning p-ortion on the movable part Vas said hem leaves 'the folder to guide the hem Aandhold the hem against spreading when the parts are sep arated and the hem released vfrom the folder; and separating means y'connected lto the movable part and operable to separate `said parts along the longitudinal split therein to release the fabric.

from the fabric guide channel.

'3. A hemmer attachment for 'a sewing ma chine for producing a downstitched hem having; an elastic core therein comprising a base; a. folder having a fabric guiding channel extending therethrough -provided with laterally spaced. facing turning portions to `form the edge yof the. fabric into a double vturn tubular lhem fand "hav-- ing a centrally disposed U-eshaped, elastic core:

vguidi-ng channel extending therethrough, said folder being split longitudinally between the turning portions to form relatively movable parts with the U-shaped guiding channel in the movable part and having the open end of the U facing the fixed part; meaning mounting the folder on the base with the parts of the fabric guiding channel in alignment and at least one of said parts of the folder being slidable in a single plane toward and away from the other part; an adjustable tensioning means on the attachment having a portion adapted to engage the core in the core guiding channel to provide a required tension on the core; separating means connected to the movable part and operable to separate said parts along the longitudinal split therein to release the fabric from the fabric guide channel and the core from the elastic core guiding channel; and means engaging the tensioning means incident to the movement of said movable part by the separating means t0 automatically release the tensioning means.

4. A hemmer attachment for a sewing machine for producing a downstitched hem having an elastic core therein comprising a base; a folder having a fabric guiding channel extending therethrough provided with laterally spaced and facing turning portions to form the edge of the fabric into a double turn tubular hem and having a centrally disposed elastic core guiding channel extending therethrough, said folder being split longitudinally between the turning portions to form relatively movable parts; means mounting the folder on the base With the parts of the fabric guiding channel in alignment and at least one of said parts of the folder being slidable in a single plane toward and away from the other part; an adjustable tensioning means for the elastic core, comprising a pivotally mounted plate adjacent the core guiding channel having a portion to engage the elastic core and an operating portion; means to urge the core engaging portion of the adjustable spring plate against the core with the desired pressure t0 provide a required tension on the core; separating means connected to the movable part and operable to separate said parts along the longitudinal split therein to release the fabric fromy the fabric guide channel; means acting on the operating portion of the plate in response to movement of said last means to rock said plate about the pivotal mounting therefor and automatically release the pressure' of the plate on the core upon separation of the folder parts; and manually operated means having actuating means thereon engageable with said operating portion of the plate to move the plate about its pivotal mounting to vary the pressure on the e core independently of the operation of the separating means.`

5. The invention as defined in claim 4 wherein said manually operated means comprises a pivoted lever and the actuating means thereon comi prises a cam surface for engaging the operating portion of the plate.

6. A hemmer device for a sewing machine for producing a downstitched hem having an elastic core therein comprising a base; a folder having a fabric guiding channel extending therethrough provided with laterally spaced and facing turning portions t0 form the edge of the fabric into a double turn tubular hem and having an open centrally disposed elastic core guiding channel extending therethrough, said folder being split longitudinally between the turning portions and adjacent the open edge of the core guiding channel to form relatively movable parts with the core guiding channel in a movable part; means mounting the folder on the base with the parts of the fabric guide channel in alignment and at least one of said parts of the folder being slidable in a single plane toward and away from the other part; an adjustable core tensioning means comprising a plate pivotally mounted on the movable part and having a portion to engage the elastic core and an angularly related downwardly extending operating portion; adjustable spring means to urge the core engaging portion of the plate against the core with the desired pressure to provide a required tension on the core; separating means connected to the movable part and operable to separate said parts along the longitudinal split therein to release the fabric from the fabric guide channel and the core from the elastic core guiding channel; and means positioned in the path of movement of the downwardly extending operating portion of the plate to engage said portion when moved with the movable part to rock said plate about the pivotal mounting therefor and automatically release the plate from the core upon separation of the folder parts.

ACHILLE J. GENIILLO.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATE-NTS Number Name Date 1,305,253 Chalman June 3, 1919 1,857,032 Schnurrbusch May 3, 1932 1,916,058 Maier June 27, 1933 1,926,525 Galbraith Sept. 12, 1933 2,034,672 Ackerman Mar. 17, 1936 

